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Hey guys, my roomates Clean chan/dirty chan won't bypass for some reason. Also if I only hit the clean chan side no sound is produced, yet if I hit dirty chan then I get guitar signal, and if I hit the clean side while the dirty is activated I get a boosted dirty signal.


so No sound when pedal is disengaged or if I engage clean only.

I compared the insides to my cc/dc and everything is identical.
sorry for crappy ipod pics

Can you get a picture of the inside?

pics added

Wiring seems pretty okay. You might want to go back over all the connections and reheat/add a little more solder. A few of them look a little bare

It could be a groundign issue, make sure the pcb isn't touching the enclosure.

that was the first thing I made sure of, stuck a small square of paper towel underneath it to make there was enough clearance. all the solder joints look extremely clean as well.

Totally +1 adding a bit of solder to the joints on the footswitch. Sometimes a solder joint can look good and not work. How? I don't know.

It's especially bad with solid core wire. Sometimes the solder joint can break.

Have you messed with the trim pots at all?
Is it possible that the level of the clean side might be low enough to not be audible by itself, but enough to slightly boost the dirty side when used in conjunction?

Looks like it is time for you to learn the ways of the mutlimeter on continuity setting. testing out the connection on the dirty chan bypass. It sounds like a joint on the bypass side of the DP/DT switch is the borked one.

McSpunckle wrote:Totally +1 adding a bit of solder to the joints on the footswitch. Sometimes a solder joint can look good and not work. How? I don't know.

It's especially bad with solid core wire. Sometimes the solder joint can break.

It's true, if there isn't enough solder on a joint, it's called a cold solder joint, in which there is some, but not enough solder to make a full connection. Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

The4455 wrote:

McSpunckle wrote:Totally +1 adding a bit of solder to the joints on the footswitch. Sometimes a solder joint can look good and not work. How? I don't know.

It's especially bad with solid core wire. Sometimes the solder joint can break.

Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

Officer Bukowski wrote:

The4455 wrote:Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

I don't think he is

Jero wrote:

Officer Bukowski wrote:

The4455 wrote:Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

I don't think he is

I think first we'll have to find out the meaning of the word "apposed".

Jero wrote:

Officer Bukowski wrote:

The4455 wrote:Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

I don't think he is

It's true, I'm not. I'm just remembering back to what I learned in my Digital electronics class, we didn't focus that much on soldering at all. But that's what it said in the soldering power point, but it sounded far fetched to me when I heard it as well. I wouldn't be surprised if it's wrong (which I'm assuming it is) because the class was more about digital electronics, hence the class name.

Chankgeez wrote:

Jero wrote:

Officer Bukowski wrote:

The4455 wrote:Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

I don't think he is

I think first we'll have to find out the meaning of the word "apposed".

gosh

The4455, that class sounds interesting, what all did you guys do? As for the cold solder, the dull ones are typically the culprit. Side note, ROHS solder is somewhat dull looking regardless of a good/bad joint, in my experience.