Re: Let's see your AMP!
Posted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 1:01 am
My bedroom amp. I can't hardly crank this one. :/
D.o.S. wrote:Nah, that's not me. I think it's AxAxAxS? Or Mr Stomach? Maybe Mudfuzz?skullservant wrote:delta 12b's. sound good on bass but i think the cab cant take it. it shakes like crazy if i have bass up to highvegedge wrote:What kind of Deltas do you have in there currently? I've got a cab loaded with a Delta Pro 12a, and another with a Delta 12LFC. Both of those together sound GODLY. Nice rich thick lows from the 12LFC, and the Pro 12a brings out the other end of spectrum while still having a nice bottom end too
You should open'er up and take the speakers out and reinforce everything in there. I can't remember who it is on here, possibly D.O.S. that is really good at reconditioning cabs- regluing joints, adding braces if need be. Both of which are pretty cheap options which will make the cab last for another 50 years. He'd probably have some good advice as to how to get it back to 100% though!
Guilty.skullservant wrote:Maybe it was AxAxAxS!
I got clued in on this by a guy we had brought an 18 from an ACC cab to. After testing he informed us that the speaker was fine and gave us some tips on fixing up enclosures. We followed the advice and I have now done the same to several cabs and it has always tightened up the sound, sometimes quite dramatically.
What you need.
Clamps, the larger the better. use lots if possible.
Weights, the more the merrier.
CA glue or Tite bond (diluted and mixed with warm water) I prefer titebond.
If you are not used to putting cabs together, take pics and label the wiring with masking tape tags so that everything ends up hooked up the same as it was.
Disassemble the cab. You should be able to tell if any screws are stripped as you take them out. If they are you can normally dab some glue in the threaded holes and that will firm up the material for the screws to have something to bite into. In extreme cases glue some toothpicks in there to fill in what has been damaged.
Most cabs have more than one type of screw used. masking tape labels and a couple of bowls or jars will keep them organized.
Next you will address the parts that are glued. This can take a day or two and is mostly a matter of using tons of clamps or weights and letting the glue cure fully.
CA glue flows fairly easily. I like using titebond as it is meant for woodworking. Again, dilute the titebond so that it thins out enough to seep into the wood.
Hold the cab at an angle so that gravity becomes your assistant. seep the glue into the glued parts and the apply clamps. Lots of clamps.
I know this is a guitar, not a cab but this is what I am talking about.
If the cab is so big that clamps wont do it, thats where weights can be handy. basically you want to apply as much pressure as you can without breaking anything.
You'll probably have to glue the different parts of the cabs in sections, some one day, some the next after the glue has fully cured.
Worst case scenario is if the ply has started to separate. I have not run into this but I have heard it can happen. In that case I'm not sure what you could do.
If all goes according to plan the cab should be as good or better than new when you are done. We did the initial 18 folded horn enclosure and the difference was dramatic. I then went through some other older cabs and they all sounded better after the treatment. tighter and more defined even when there was no initial buz to alert us something was wrong.
Now when I get a new (vintage) cab, I just go ahead and do this right off the bat. This has also led to some great deals on CL. sometimes people self diagnose their gear as broken and its just in need of a little love.
