ilovefuzz.com

adrianlee wrote:GASing hard for a fuzz face

Here you go. 4 h left ...
http://cgi.ebay.ca/370524021227
Missing the switch so it should go cheap

just ordered this today. fuckyeahnewguitar!

Shouldnt be doing this buuuuuut.....

^^ those MK 2 Hi Fliers are just the biz. Ive got an Aria branded version and it sounds so fuckin great. And it weighs nothing too!

devnulljp wrote:Missing the switch so it should go cheap

$800 right now with 3 hours left

question: are the red ones worth more than the grey ones? are the NTK275 FF worth more than the AC128?

trad3mark wrote:just ordered this today. fuckyeahnewguitar!

Look nice, what it is?

SPACERITUAL wrote:Shouldnt be doing this buuuuuut.....

Let me know how the neck is. I'm watching a Pan...

eatyourguitar wrote:

devnulljp wrote:Missing the switch so it should go cheap

$800 right now with 3 hours left

question: are the red ones worth more than the grey ones? are the NTK275 FF worth more than the AC128?

Guess I should have said ... for certain very high values of cheap
That's crazy money for something that's fucked up.

AFAIK, the NKT275 FFs are rarer/worth more than AC128s. Don't know how many originals had AC128s though ... I know the AC128s were used in the Crest/Cornell reissues in the 80s/90s and most of those were utter pish. Not the fault of the poor old trannies, they just didn't bother matching them or even selecting for proper hfe's, just slapped em in there and if it went FZZZZZZZZ they were good to go. I've seen a few with the trannies in backwards -- they sound awful. I got the guts from a Cornell cheap, swapped out the trannies for some decent Matsushitas and it sounded great.

i finally bought a muff
guess which version
and at a steal of a price

its a real v3 1976 to 1977. notice its has printed AC for the newly added power jack. the footswitch is another sign that it is some kind of vintage. the last way to tell is on the jacks/switch and the battery door but thats not in the pics.
http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_historyB.html#Version3
thanks google

eatyourguitar wrote::omg: its a real v3 1976 to 1977. notice its has printed AC for the newly added power jack. the footswitch is another sign that it is some kind of vintage. the last way to tell is on the jacks/switch and the battery door but thats not in the pics.
http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_historyB.html#Version3
thanks google

It could be a v3, EH3003 ram's head in red/black box (so most likely BC239Cs but there's a few other possibilities), but it could also be a v5 op-amp (EH-3003 / 3003B / 1322). There's no way to tell from that pic. (it could be just about anything really, v6 3034 w/ changed knobs...)

My money's on the v5 op-amp (w/ EH1322 board) because of the positions of the pots. Date could be something like 1979-82ish?
Also never seen a v3 Tone Bypass, w/ AC, but it wouldn't surprise me if they existed.
With those settings, on a ram's head/v3, the volume would be only up about 1/3, tone would be rolled off completely and Sustain is down all the way too.
Would be much more usable settings on a v5

KitRae has a nice little diagram:


Here's a comparison
L-R: v2 Mike's Head FS36999 (2N5088) 3003 | v3 red/black BC239C | 3034 v6 S2N5088 (tone bypass)
No AC on the v3 (regardless of what Ron Nealy says -- his numbering scheme has been superseded in the world of Muffology )
All pots set to min:

All pots set to max:


Here's some IC Muffs
L-R: v4 EH-3003B (1977) On/Off switch | v5 EH-3003 (1980) Tone Bypass switch | v5 EH1322 (1981) Tone Bypass switch
All have the “AC” on top.


I think those knobs look like repros that have been 'reliced' too

Nice score -- I like those. Didja get it cheap?

SPACERITUAL wrote:Shouldnt be doing this buuuuuut.....

Shiiiit. Nice!

devnulljp wrote:

eatyourguitar wrote::omg: its a real v3 1976 to 1977. notice its has printed AC for the newly added power jack. the footswitch is another sign that it is some kind of vintage. the last way to tell is on the jacks/switch and the battery door but thats not in the pics.
http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_historyB.html#Version3
thanks google

It could be a v3, EH3003 ram's head in red/black box (so most likely BC239Cs but there's a few other possibilities), but it could also be a v5 op-amp (EH-3003 / 3003B / 1322). There's no way to tell from that pic. (it could be just about anything really, v6 3034 w/ changed knobs...)

My money's on the v5 op-amp (w/ EH1322 board) because of the positions of the pots. Date could be something like 1979-82ish?
Also never seen a v3 Tone Bypass, w/ AC, but it wouldn't surprise me if they existed.
With those settings, on a ram's head/v3, the volume would be only up about 1/3, tone would be rolled off completely and Sustain is down all the way too.
Would be much more usable settings on a v5

KitRae has a nice little diagram:


Here's a comparison
L-R: v2 Mike's Head FS36999 (2N5088) 3003 | v3 red/black BC239C | 3034 v6 S2N5088 (tone bypass)
No AC on the v3 (regardless of what Ron Nealy says -- his numbering scheme has been superseded in the world of Muffology )
All pots set to min:

All pots set to max:


Here's some IC Muffs
L-R: v4 EH-3003B (1977) On/Off switch | v5 EH-3003 (1980) Tone Bypass switch | v5 EH1322 (1981) Tone Bypass switch
All have the “AC” on top.


I think those knobs look like repros that have been 'reliced' too

Nice score -- I like those. Didja get it cheap?

its an op amp muff thats all i know
it was 125 beans which is a score at my super low budget

kbithecrowing wrote:Impulse buy



I didn't really need new pickups, anyways. Can't wait to stack this with my Eau Claire Thunder.

Set the Pharaoh at zero Fuzz and run the cranked the ECT into it.

tuffteef wrote:its an op amp muff thats all i know
it was 125 beans which is a score at my super low budget

Not a bad deal. Especially now (Curse you Billy Corgan ).
Lay you odds its an EH1322 inside ... 1980
(I still think those are reliced modern knobs though)