ilovefuzz.com

I need to read more about their modules. I loved my original BI, so an Alter is on the list for sure. I'm going to read more about their other modules because the pages offer little and the panels the same.

You have to read the manuals as the modules pages indeed do not have much info...

The Integra Funkitus seems quite interesting too, in another genre. Smart ways to modify/combine triggers and gates.

Dark Barn wrote:Here's what I recommend, without taking the time to justify each. +/-5v (or more) for LFOs, 0-8v (or more) for envelopes, at least 5v for gates/triggers. That will get you in the ballpark for each function, if you are looking at anything below those ranges you need to justify it for your system somehow.

Generally attenuation is a bigger need than amplification. If you need to amplify audio there are lots of VCAs that have that function, but the need to amplify CV is rarer, and I don't know much about it other than it's a thing. Would personally get CV modules that exceed my required range and attenuate them.

thanks for the insight man! i figured there a ways to do these things but its hard to grasp/visualize from just reading.

so like how would someone approach a situation like this...
say i have an input that controls a param in the range of 0-12V.
i have an LFO that is -/+ 5V that i want to control input w/.
i would need to offset and possibly amplify the LFO control signal?

i guess my overlying q is that it seems like these types of situations would pop up frequently in the vast world of modular.
are the solutions usually relatively simple for someone to overcome and interface with different voltage schemes.
i guess that it really depends on the modules you own = the versatility of your rig.

am i understanding right if i was under the impression that most if not all modular stuff has protections built-in to all the patch points that save from damaging something from accidentally applying too much voltage..? or the wrong polarity, etc. obv this is a nice thing to have, but is this "standard"?

thanks again. i know this is like n00b level shit that i could figure out myself and a few modules.

most CV inputs seems to work in the 10VPP range, so most parameters work either from 0-10v or -5/5 range, so most LFOs will be fine as either -5/5 or 0/10. offsetting and attenuating is always recommended though to fine tune yr LFOs.

there are a couple ways to deal with different voltage schemes throughout modular. there are Hz to V converters, Modular level to Guitar pedal level converters, and what not.

All modules will be designed to handle a -12/12 current, there have been issues that popped up in random ways of current frying a module, but those are few and far between. you shouldn't have to worry ever about "overloading" an input with too much current. trying to put a -5 current into something that only deals with 0/10, I think the current just applies as 0v in that situation (or doesn't apply at all)? I don't remember but I'm pretty sure that's how it works.

Dr. Sherman Sticks M.D. wrote: so like how would someone approach a situation like this...
say i have an input that controls a param in the range of 0-12V.
i have an LFO that is -/+ 5V that i want to control input w/.
i would need to offset and possibly amplify the LFO control signal?

Yeah you would apply a positive offset to the LFO. If an LFO is swinging from -5v to +5v, it's midpoint is 0v. Applying an offset (positive or negative) would effectively shift the midpoint of the LFO. So if you added a +5v offset to an LFO, it would then swing from 0v-10v. While what's happening is kinda technical, in practice it's not too hard to figure out given the right tools. There's also half and full wave rectification, which converts the negative voltage to either 0v or the positive voltage equivalent. I'll let this very handy diagram explain:




Also, in the short time I've been futzing around in modular land, I've come to realize that I almost never want to modulate the entire range of a parameter at any given point. Offset and attenuation let you dial in the precise range and scope of modulation that's incredibly more useful than just throwing 8-12v into an input. Plus, in the case of an LFO, playing with an offset while it's modulating something let's you sweep the midpoint of the LFO, which is pretty fucking cool

Yeah, when you modulate something you need either the modulation source to have an attenuator/attenuverter (like on a Maths for example) or the CV input to have an attenuator/attenuverter. And you can obviously always go through something else to modify the modulation signal. That's why attenuation/offset modules are super useful and needed in most systems.

That graph is probably super useful for people new to this

Yeah that graph was super helpful to me!

In other news, this skiff business is fun and all but I really just wanna fill 6Ux104hp and start making shit proper.... I think I might have been better choosing a couple different modules for such a small space. Maths in particular might just be too big to justify in 90hp. Definitely not gonna sell it, but might swap it out...

Ruiner, how do you feel about the Mantis you bought?

kbit wrote:Yeah that graph was super helpful to me!

In other news, this skiff business is fun and all but I really just wanna fill 6Ux104hp and start making shit proper.... I think I might have been better choosing a couple different modules for such a small space. Maths in particular might just be too big to justify in 90hp. Definitely not gonna sell it, but might swap it out...

Ruiner, how do you feel about the Mantis you bought?

Hey dude, hope this is helpful. I just filled (waiting on 3 modules in the damn mail) a 6U 104hp and I think it's the perfect starting point. I got my osc and vca/envelope/effects all setup, got some drums, a couple different 'playable' joints, sequencers, etc and I feel like I can finally explore all the shit I have to full potential.

Wish someone would've told me that this was a long road into the abyss. This GAS is way worse than pedals.

I won't be upgrading for a few months, but when I do it will be another 6U for all my effect-Ing so I can fit more things in the OG 6.

I'm a MIDIdiot. What's the best way to sync your eurorack system with your DAW? I want to be able to sync the clocks for recording to get everything in time and be able to record multiple tracks from the modules and then go back and lay guitar and other stuff over it. I do have a midi interface though i've never used it. Guessing something like a MI Yarns or simpler MIDI interface module? Then what? Oh and using Pro Tools as my DAW.

Audio click track and a comparator.

Or

Run the click track to your send/rtn. Take the output to maths envelope follower. Set decay to the length you want and rise to nothing. Use the end of rise/envelope pulses to set your base time and a secondary division (like a trigger delay).

Cheapest/simplest : Bastl klik
http://www.bastl-instruments.com/instruments/klik/

More expensive/full of options : something from Expert Sleepers...

Yup, bastl klik...didn't forget about it, just figured dude has a comparator somewhere in there.

But the klik just a comparator/Schmidt/edge sharpener (something along those lines) to begin with anyway .

Thanks guys! That's definitely helpful! I don't THINK i have a comparator? No idea. Klik seems like a good way to go.

Slew should work if it has an eor/end pulse thing going on (maths, sport mod, rampage, etc)

lordgalvar wrote:Slew should work if it has an eor/end pulse thing going on (maths, sport mod, rampage, etc)

I've got Maths but wouldn't know where to begin! I like the Klik since it's dedicated to that and has explanations of how to do it. Seems the easiest route to take for me. Thanks again guys!