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I've got a large vintage tin enclosure here that's been waiting for a project like this and literally 100s of germanium transistors that could go in a FF.
When do you need it built by?

Ben79 wrote:I've got a large vintage tin enclosure here that's been waiting for a project like this and literally 100s of germanium transistors that could go in a FF.
When do you need it built by?

eatyourguitar wrote:TL;DR ... I can supply one PCB each to the first two people who can build an 11 knob fuzz in less than a month after receiving the pcb...

Yeah, I think spacing of switch lugs is more or less standard amongst the general sizes, go with your gut.

yeah these are solder lug NKK. the PCB will accept solderlug switches. I had a feeling they would be all the same footprint but I had no actual datasheets to confirm it %100.

Ben79 wrote:I've got a large vintage tin enclosure here that's been waiting for a project like this and literally 100s of germanium transistors that could go in a FF.
When do you need it built by?

if I didn't give you one as a beta I probably would have given you a free one anyway only because I know you. you are covered mate

I'd be a willing builder but it depends when I receive it as I'll be busy this month. January is clear.

yeah that is pretty much what I am planning. boards ship jan 7 maybe.

any suggestions about knob spacing or PCB size speak now.

Looks good, I plan on flying my controls via wire to allow freedom in layout (and big knobs, I love me some big fuck'n knobs), any chance of punching a hole or two to support us weirdos that want to bolt it into the enclosure? I tend to go with 0.180" drills ~ 0.3 off corner and use hardware. I do have alternate methods of PCB securing if this seems like an outlier request, so no worries! Looks sharp and the early January target sounds good.

I can probably add mounting holes but if I don't you can drill 3 holes in it and use nylon screws to a female - female standoff with a metal screw through the enclosure.

Yeah, I wouldn't bend over backwards to integrate mounting points if it's not a popular practice. I've got a solution that doesn't involved drilling the board, rip a profile on some scrap wood with the table saw and suspend the board between those points.

looks like lots of space for some drill holes but also you could just mount 2 or 3 of the pots or switches on the board and the rest off board, still allowing for huge knobs etc.

edit:

also one more thing, although this is more a matter of style than anything else, for any polarized part, ie electrolytic caps or diodes, why not orient them all the same way on the pcb. this makes it very easy to populate and also to detect ones that may be in backwards. the resulting routing may look a bit funnier but is unlikely to actually cause much more difficulty. again just a style thing though, designing more with the perspective that a person, probably with less experience than yourself, will be assembling this board. why not make it easy.

This sounds like a fun project. Once you are up and running I will give it a go.

crochambeau wrote:Yeah, I wouldn't bend over backwards to integrate mounting points if it's not a popular practice. I've got a solution that doesn't involved drilling the board, rip a profile on some scrap wood with the table saw and suspend the board between those points.

I would just board mount 1 pot for enclosure mounting and keep the rest as flying. Keeps it simple.

multi_s wrote:why not orient [electrolytic capacitors] all the same way on the pcb?

that is a good idea that I never thought of before. my fetish for very short connections between components ensures that I can make the best product I can possibly make. I am doing both retail production, kits, and PCB's. people that do DIY are expected to know the right and wrong way to install a cap. although I would love to make it more beginner friendly in other ways. mounting holes are coming and the PCB should be done tomorrow. beta ships jan 7. PCB + kits in FEB.