INFANEM the driving notion clone

[repoman]

awesome work

[moid]

the one that looks like a bellybutton is symbolic. it shows that everything with that symbol is on the same copper conductor. in a guitar pedal, almost half of the components have one of the terminals "pulled up" meaning they are all on the same positive power bus. we draw positive power rails up top by tradition. easy to remember. think of it like a waterfall. voltage is water pressure. up high is high voltage. on the bottom of the picture is ground. you can think of this like a no energy state. all the electrons that want to go to ground are already there. lazy electrons. actually you bring up a valid point. I made a mistake in that schematic. the transistors should be connected to 18v after that power input resistor. that resistor and capacitor are the power filter. it puts noise generated by the LED on the other power rail dirty power straight off the pedal board shared power. the X is the wire pad library. it draws a hole with a solder pad on the PCB if I drop one of these in the schematic.

EAS means nothing to me. it comes with the software or the library. maybe there is some reason for it if you have that specific trim pot. the footprint on the PCB is very small. it matches the tayda trimmers.

Thanks very much for replying - that explanation of power dropping down to ground is excellent; I'd never thought of it in that way before! I redrew that power section to follow along with what you wrote; have I drawn it correctly?

[imJonWain]

Yeah, you could move the 1n4001 if you wanted but it's fine as is.

[taco satori]

Recently ran across this thread, and it didn’t disappoint! I’m super glad to see this design become available again. I’m curious about any audible differences between stock and the charge pump suggestion — I usually run lower output pickups into the DN because it sags mightily when hit with higher output stuff.

[eatyourguitar]

Recently ran across this thread, and it didn’t disappoint! I’m super glad to see this design become available again. I’m curious about any audible differences between stock and the charge pump suggestion — I usually run lower output pickups into the DN because it sags mightily when hit with higher output stuff.

I haven't tried it myself. when I got the pedal the jacks were already damaged. my priority was to do reverse engineering. the new build will have new jacks new pots new footswitch etc..I have a short scale guitar tuned to G. your setup will sound different than mine. I will try to test with 18v and 9v. I think 18v will be much better.

there is a fix for too much gain. I don't think 18v will fix that problem. look at the first gain stage. it is a high gain fet. this was very popular in the 80's. look at the Ibanez standard fuzz with the sliders. 2SK30A-Y is the first gain stage. Y code means super high gain. this was like putting a clean boos in front of every pedal. they copied what players were doing with the clean boost pedals. all you need to do is swap that out to a BS170 SHO circuit with a gain knob.

[eatyourguitar]

I looked again, you probably only need to adjust the 50K trimmer on the J201 to have less gain.

[goroth]

That sounds like a cool mod - I always found this pedal a medium-high gain pedal, and it would have been great as low gain as well.

[eatyourguitar]

I have a mod in the works. I will publish it tomorrow.

[eatyourguitar]

comments and suggestions welcome.

[crochambeau]

comments and suggestions welcome.

My hunch is that it will make little difference at the circuit board, unless these are PCB mount switches. With regards to S1 & S2, I typically find it preferable to use ON-ON-ON switches when providing a three way, that way I can wire the switch to be out of circuit when paddle is either full down or up, and subsequently line the other two switch states to "increase/decrease" function along the travel. It does require a DPDT to do so, but the end user experience is better (in my opinion).

[eatyourguitar]

If you set the switches and the knobs just right then it is completely stock. I'm not understanding what the concern is. You don't like flying switches? Those 1uF are TH MLCC. The resistor pads get wired to switches. I figure with single coils plugging in direct there will be some different sounds at 10K and 100K pad. With humbuckers, or active pickups you can dial in less distortion from the J201.

[crochambeau]

If you set the switches and the knobs just right then it is completely stock. I'm not understanding what the concern is. You don't like flying switches?

It's not a concern, it's an observation.

Take S2 for example, it is designated as an ON-OFF-ON.

Let's say paddle up connects 1 & 2, making roughly 9K in line, that puts 100K at center and 0 ohms at down. There is a lowest gain setting flanked by two higher gain settings.

If you employ an ON-ON-ON switch in this manner:

and assign the pole that connects 2 & 3 in center position to the 10K load, you wind up with lowest gain at lower most switch position, and highest gain at uppermost switch position with a logical progression. Makes for cohesive performance.

Anyway, it was not meant as an attack on your design. You said:

comments and suggestions welcome.

so do accept my apologies if I misconstrued the intent in your statement. I do like flying switches.

[eatyourguitar]

I didn't understand at first but now I understand. this is more of a preference towards clean user interface. it will sound the same. your comments are always welcome I just didn't understand what you were trying to say.

[goroth]

I just didn't understand what you were trying to say.

This is me in all technical conversations.

[ibarakishi]

I just didn't understand what you were trying to say.

This is me in all technical conversations.