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purpleshoes wrote:I'm the dude who emailed you a month or two ago asking if there were any pcbs left but they were already sold out - been planning a build on perfboard for ages but finally have the parts/time to get round to it this week. are you looking to find out if the PCB itself is ok or just the circuit?
Fuzzy Lumpkins wrote:eatyourguitar wrote:electrolytic capacitors are polarized so that would be my primary concern. my second concern would be consistency from one pedal to the next in a production environment. this goes hand and hand with the tolerances %5 poly vs %20 on the electrolytic usually. there is also longevity of the cap. a poly box cap is good for 100 years while an electrolytic cap might not be so lucky. you could buy a "non-polar" also known as a "bi-polar" electrolytic capacitor but if you would go out of your way to find it and pay for it then maybe just keep going and get the high end cap. then after all these considerations there is the issue of temperature stability and moisture resistance. I want my equipment to sound the same in any environment. new designs should not have the problems that old germanium fuzz pedals had.
So it can be used, but you just prefer not to.
Thanks.
Faldoe wrote:I have a clone I built years ago that I traced from a real WC I had in my possession at the time. I'll take a look at mine and see if it matches the layout here.
I remember other people had mentioned prior vero layouts not being accurate.
eatyourguitar wrote:I can't be held responsible for the change in sound.
multi_s wrote:i think in this case though you can pretty safely assume putting the anode on the side where the "c3" text is in the above schematic will be ok though no?
just eyeballing it but say the net that has the base of Q2 and pin 1 of bass pot cannot be higher than ~ .7 VDC right?
and how low can the collector of Q1 really go? 0V? so worst case across C3 and BASS pot in series you have .7 volts of reverse bias?
you could also just put two 6.8uf in series as eyg showed in his picture to get 3.4 uf, close to 3.3.
i am not responsible for how that sounds though.
multi_s wrote:i think in this case though you can pretty safely assume putting the anode on the side where the "c3" text is in the above schematic will be ok though no?
eatyourguitar wrote:purpleshoes wrote:I'm the dude who emailed you a month or two ago asking if there were any pcbs left but they were already sold out - been planning a build on perfboard for ages but finally have the parts/time to get round to it this week. are you looking to find out if the PCB itself is ok or just the circuit?
I am in need of information about the circuit and also the PCB. if the PCB is confirmed working then it would prove the circuit I drew is also working. my circuit has a few mods but you don't need to wire them up if you want something closer to the original. there is no downside to putting the bass control in there. you can twist the 100K up effectively taking the 3.3uF cap and 100K pot out of the circuit. the tone control on the output was done quickly without testing so I would like to print information in the build doc telling people to leave it out or telling them what value pot if we leave it in.
if anyone has a working clone on perf, please tell me if you used my schematic or something else.
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