Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.



Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ShaunNecro » Wed Dec 23, 2015 12:49 am

Finally sold my 810 last week, so I FINALLY got money to put towards SLK making my new 215. I'm in the process of getting speakers now, just trying to find killer deals on them...
I decided to go with green tolex and silver Ampeg grill cloth, but we may go with black depending on how it looks together.
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ShaolinLambKiller » Wed Dec 23, 2015 12:56 am

:D
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby Obulus » Tue Feb 02, 2016 9:24 am

Making an 1x12" and just glued up the last corner!
Image

Some questions:
How do you guys attach the speakers? Do you screw them straight in the wood? Sounds like that might not be a great solution on the long term when the wood wears out? Or do you those metal pre threaded thingies and how does that work? I'm sorry I'm a noob, this is my first cab build!

Also, I want to cover it in pink tweed like this bad boy:
Image

Anyone knows where to source pink tweed? Only thing I can find is pink tolex that is trying to look like tweed (no international shipping though :idk:):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tolex-amp-cover ... 1300764081
"Pink "Faux" tweed tolex vinyl amp covering. This covering has a tweed pattern printed on it (similar to Peavy classic series tube amps) with a Rose background and brown stripe."

I've never seen one of these Peavey amps up close so I don't know...
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby Muff_Diver » Tue Feb 02, 2016 10:02 am

Speakers should be attached with t nuts (the spikey things) to a baffle board. Depending on your style, this baffle board can be mounted to the cab on all sides (marshall/modern style) or only on 2 of the sides ("floating baffle" ala tweed fender).
Baffle wood should be 1/2-3/4 of an inch and shouldnt wear out so long as the cab isnt subjected to wood-damaging elements. There are disgusting amounts of amps and cabs from the 50s and 60s that still have their original baffles fully and structurally in tact. And even if the wood were to wear out or become damaged, all you need to do is unscrew the speaker from the baffle.

For installing the t nuts, there are two ways of going about it. Both first involve drilling a hole that the threaded part of the t nut can fit in snugly. The second part, lodging the spikes in the wood, can be done two ways:
1. insert and tighten a screw with a washer on the opposing side of the t nut, so that as you tighten the screw, the spikes from the nut are drawn into the wood.
2. hammer it in.

Good luck with the build!
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby Muff_Diver » Tue Feb 02, 2016 2:57 pm

Some progress picks on my 2x12 janice rip off:

Image
Rough fitting baffle. Dovetails routed flush. Heavy sanding done.

Image
Back fitting.

Image
Roundover edges done. Lighter sanding/stain prep.

Image
Wet sanding. Hardware installation. I definitely dropped the ball on the finish, but its far from horrible, especially in "proper" lighting.

Installing grill cloth tonight and then shes all good to go! Will post some final assembly pics tomorrow. I would not have gotten this far without this thread-its sort of a shame a lot of the photos are no longer hosted since I learned more from pictures than anything else (I spent a lot of time on janice's instagram). Either way, a fun project to get me back into the woodworking game. It's far from perfect, but it should hold some speakers just fine.
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ShaolinLambKiller » Tue Feb 02, 2016 9:22 pm

I do both t-nuts and screw into the wood. it wearing on the wood honestly depends how often you change out/blow speakers. It doesn't matter much my 1960 kustom cabs were all screwed in and it all held fine, same with my fender bassman cab.

Looking good tho on that 1-12 did all you do was glue it? Nothing else?

same with that 212- but I can tell about the finish but I'm curious what's more wrong. I mean it seems a bit off in the staining from that pic and the wetsanding... also why wetsanding?

did this pedalbox thing for a duder

Image

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also a 212 I did before.
Image
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby Muff_Diver » Wed Feb 03, 2016 9:37 am

SLK- Wet sanding to get rid of the orange-peel effect on the clear coat.
I finished it all up last night, only to find one of the speakers I had planned on using since starting this project is fried. So unfortunately I have no idea how it sounds. Despite this, Im really stoked on how this came out.

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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby AxAxSxS » Wed Feb 03, 2016 2:05 pm

Not really a build, but with FLUX on a bit of a break for writing, I decided some cab maintenance was in order. First up was Dan's shitty marshall 4x12. It was woofy, and from past experience i determined it sounded like cab vibration and not shitty speaker. After some herbal inspiration I got the idea to coat the inside with plasti dip.
Not sure how I arrived at that, but I did it, and holy shit what a difference!
I've now coated ALL of our cabs and the sound is better than ever. Much more defined and full to my ears without any sort of woofy cab vibration sounds at all.
If you have some beat up cabs that maybe don't sound as good as they used to I definitely recommend taking them apart, looking for places to re glue or tighten up the screws, and then coat the shit out of the insides paying special consideration to all the joins and letting it seep into any cracks.
The stuff I used is available at home depo and was under $6 a can. Well worth it.

Image

Edit: Unsure how much of a concern this would really be but I made sure to let it fully cure before putting it back together. I would not want the solvents in the plasti dip contained inside the cab as it could potentially affect the speakers glue?
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ShaolinLambKiller » Wed Feb 03, 2016 6:18 pm

yes always fully let it cure.

I see, I don't bother with wet sanding cause I just go with a lighter grit up to 400 to do the same thing and then recoat. looks good.
I like to keep myself busy:
My loud heavy boxes:
www.facebook.com/MaulerCustomCabs

a ton of my music
http://speedritualrecords.storenvy.com/

and a ton of my ugly art
http://www.cavepaints.com/
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby Obulus » Wed Feb 03, 2016 10:35 pm

Muff_Diver wrote:Speakers should be attached with t nuts (the spikey things) to a baffle board. Depending on your style, this baffle board can be mounted to the cab on all sides (marshall/modern style) or only on 2 of the sides ("floating baffle" ala tweed fender).
Baffle wood should be 1/2-3/4 of an inch and shouldnt wear out so long as the cab isnt subjected to wood-damaging elements. There are disgusting amounts of amps and cabs from the 50s and 60s that still have their original baffles fully and structurally in tact. And even if the wood were to wear out or become damaged, all you need to do is unscrew the speaker from the baffle.

For installing the t nuts, there are two ways of going about it. Both first involve drilling a hole that the threaded part of the t nut can fit in snugly. The second part, lodging the spikes in the wood, can be done two ways:
1. insert and tighten a screw with a washer on the opposing side of the t nut, so that as you tighten the screw, the spikes from the nut are drawn into the wood.
2. hammer it in.

Good luck with the build!


Alright thanks! Will look for some t nuts in the hardware store.

ShaolinLambKiller wrote:Looking good tho on that 1-12 did all you do was glue it? Nothing else?


I planned on using only glue at first, but then I changed my mind because I wanted to make sure it would be sturdy so I also put some screws in while they were clamped. Seems very solid now!

Hopefully I'll have some time to work on it tomorrow, otherwise it will be for the weekend.

Thanks for your input guys! I'd be pleased if my cab turns out half as good as the ones you guys are posting
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ShaolinLambKiller » Thu Feb 04, 2016 9:22 pm

GOOD! because if you were just going to leave it glue, it'd vibrate apart. I don't care what glue you used.
I like to keep myself busy:
My loud heavy boxes:
www.facebook.com/MaulerCustomCabs

a ton of my music
http://speedritualrecords.storenvy.com/

and a ton of my ugly art
http://www.cavepaints.com/
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ShaolinLambKiller » Sat Feb 06, 2016 7:11 pm

212 115 I did for a client that plans on covering it with comic pages


Image

Image
I like to keep myself busy:
My loud heavy boxes:
www.facebook.com/MaulerCustomCabs

a ton of my music
http://speedritualrecords.storenvy.com/

and a ton of my ugly art
http://www.cavepaints.com/
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ricks.pics » Thu Feb 11, 2016 6:32 pm

Quick question for those of you that do tolex, I've got a bit of tolex pealing off my 4x12, what are some recommendations on glues, techniques, etc, that could remedy that situation?
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ShimaTetsuo » Thu Feb 11, 2016 8:58 pm

ricks.pics wrote:Quick question for those of you that do tolex, I've got a bit of tolex pealing off my 4x12, what are some recommendations on glues, techniques, etc, that could remedy that situation?


DAP Non Flammable Contact Cement(Green Can). Do not use the red can contact cement as it reacts with the tolex by shrinking it and fucking up your seams. Apply glue to both tolex and cab and use a heat gun carefully to get the glue tacky. Put the tolex in place and warm it up with a heat gun again, carefully, to help the glue hold. Use a rag to rub the tolex with soft pressure while it's cooling.
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Re: Let's hear about those cab builds you have planned.

Postby ShaolinLambKiller » Thu Feb 11, 2016 11:08 pm

I wouldn't recommend the heatgun. it'll also heat the tolex to where it'll stretch and then it'll shrink back to normal size and could cause gaps. But contact cement is my route as well.
I like to keep myself busy:
My loud heavy boxes:
www.facebook.com/MaulerCustomCabs

a ton of my music
http://speedritualrecords.storenvy.com/

and a ton of my ugly art
http://www.cavepaints.com/
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