Let's see your KEYS/SYNTHS!

[$harkToootth]

The Internet consensus is 9VDC Negative Center is fine. I cross referenced three forums and a Google group.

[friendship]

TIGHT thanks Sharkey

[friendship]

No power on, though the LED flickered very, very dimly at first. The headphone output appears to be emitting some kind of power-on pulse at around 78bpm, which cuts out if the power output is wiggled a litle. Seems loose.

What do you reckon the next step is? I have a soldering iron.

[$harkToootth]

Just cross referenced again and the supply should be good. People use their MC 303 adapters for the CZ 1000. Not sure on next steps. I did read some where about an internal reset?

[friendship]

Just cross referenced again and the supply should be good. People use their MC 303 adapters for the CZ 1000. Not sure on next steps. I did read some where about an internal reset?

Yeah looks like there's a recessed "P-button" on the underside which acts as a factory reset to fix any bug problems, but according to the manual the unit needs to be on for it to work.

http://forum.vintagesynth.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=46644
There are some ideas in this thread

If the power jack feels loose it may help to re-flow the solder where the pins are soldered to the circuit board. They take stress and often the pins break free from the solder. It is a very common injury.

4. The CZ has circuitry inside to automatically power down when left on for a certain period of time without use. This is a common source of failure.

Not sure how to approach either of these things so maybe I should take it to someone who does?

[$harkToootth]

PM Pepe. He might be able to help. This is beyond my scope

[Pepe]

Meh. I fear that I cannot really help. I also have to consult other people all the time whenever one of my beasts refuses to work properly. I have good soldering skills and have a knack for replacing broken parts, but most of the time I cannot analyse on my own what has caused a failure. I made several approaches to understand electronics, but I fear that my 10-year-old son will have better skills in the next three years, if not earlier.

Last week my Mono/Poly suddenly stopped working during a live gig. I know that I have to replace an Electromagnetic Interference suppression film capacitor that has burst, but this is a broken part that was quite easy to spot, because of all the crumbled plastic. Replacing parts is almost fun. Recapping is no problem, as well as a calibration if it doesn't necessarily need an oscilloscope (another mystical machine that I didn't fully understand up till today ...). Crimping new connectors is also helpful here and there. But show me a schematic or ask me to check an IC and you have found my weak spot. I only like to play these instruments!

[cloudscapes]

trying an idea. part of a bigger thing, not pictured. bowed/prepared guitar, loopers, effects, drum pad.

malekko noise -> diy shift register pattern melody generator thing -> quad lfo -> offset/attn -> quantizer -> pico sequencer -> mult -> cloud gen -> elements -> diy adsr / neutron star -> vca -> radio music -> grainshift -> vcf -> mixer -> snd/rtn

[gila_crisis]

Jmtsynths?^^^^

yes! SNB2n and NF!

[$harkToootth]

@cloudscapes -> Post full set up...please? I love mixing strings with odd processing configurations.

[friendship]

Meh. I fear that I cannot really help. I also have to consult other people all the time whenever one of my beasts refuses to work properly. I have good soldering skills and have a knack for replacing broken parts, but most of the time I cannot analyse on my own what has caused a failure. I made several approaches to understand electronics, but I fear that my 10-year-old son will have better skills in the next three years, if not earlier.

Last week my Mono/Poly suddenly stopped working during a live gig. I know that I have to replace an Electromagnetic Interference suppression film capacitor that has burst, but this is a broken part that was quite easy to spot, because of all the crumbled plastic. Replacing parts is almost fun. Recapping is no problem, as well as a calibration if it doesn't necessarily need an oscilloscope (another mystical machine that I didn't fully understand up till today ...). Crimping new connectors is also helpful here and there. But show me a schematic or ask me to check an IC and you have found my weak spot. I only like to play these instruments!

Thanks for the input anyway!

I found a place that'll take a look at it, they have a $50 nonrefundable fee for diagnosing it that's applied to the total repair, and then it's $90/hour. On one hand, if it's a really simple fix it'd cost me maybe $100. On the other hand, if it's something serious and not worth repairing, then I'm out $50.

An alternative plan is to send it out West to my friend who builds/fixes these things, as a gift. It didn't cost me much at the thrift store so I don't mind losing that in the interest of giving my friend something cool.

[$harkToootth]

Before you even do that...correspond with ILF DIY and Muff DIY (if you haven't already). There are too many talented people here to not tap into their skills.

[aen]

Yeah looks like there's a recessed "P-button" on the underside which acts as a factory reset to fix any bug problems

it's called a prostate, and yes it will fix your bug problems

[$harkToootth]

Free one day shipping with prime.

[friendship]

Yeah looks like there's a recessed "P-button" on the underside which acts as a factory reset to fix any bug problems

it's called a prostate, and yes it will fix your bug problems